Cult Gaia

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By Jasmin Larian Hekmat

Cult Gaia entered Spring 2027 with one of its most emotionally charged and visually ambitious collections yet. Presented in New York on September 9, 2026, the collection, titled “Behesht” the Persian word for heaven marked a deeply personal chapter for founder and designer Jasmin Larian Hekmat. Rather than simply delivering the tropical glamour and vacation-ready sensuality that have become synonymous with Cult Gaia, Hekmat used the season to explore the complicated relationship between grief, beauty, celebration and transformation.

The result was a collection that moved deliberately between darkness and light. Structured tailoring gave way to fluid dresses, metallic surfaces met delicate silk, and sculptural silhouettes were balanced by romantic movement. It was unmistakably Cult Gaia, but with a more mature emotional vocabulary.

Hekmat’s Spring 2027 collection represented her second time showing during New York Fashion Week, and the presentation demonstrated how far the label has evolved beyond its origins as an accessories-focused brand. Cult Gaia’s signature fascination with sculpture, texture and statement-making design remained firmly intact, but this season those ideas were translated into a broader and more sophisticated ready-to-wear wardrobe.

A Collection Born From Grief

The emotional foundation of the collection was Hekmat’s experience of losing her grandmother, Mommy Aghdas, earlier this year. Instead of approaching grief exclusively through darkness, the designer considered how beauty can emerge from difficult experiences.

That idea became the central tension of “Behesht.”

The opening section of the collection felt restrained, sophisticated and slightly melancholic. The palette and silhouettes created a sense of seriousness before gradually transitioning into more playful, sensual and celebratory looks. It was almost as if the runway itself was moving through different stages of mourning beginning in shadow and eventually arriving at light.

This emotional progression gave the collection something particularly powerful: a narrative.

Rather than presenting Spring 2027 as a collection of disconnected statement pieces, Hekmat created a visual journey. The clothes became expressions of memory, transformation and the possibility of finding joy again.

Cult Gaia Gets Serious About Tailoring

One of the most interesting developments for Spring 2027 was Cult Gaia’s increasingly confident approach to tailoring.

The collection opened with a deep olive-green suit featuring exaggerated shoulders and voluminous sleeves paired with capri trousers. The look immediately established a more structured direction for the brand, moving away from the easy vacation dressing that has traditionally dominated its identity.

Another important menswear-inspired look came in the form of a black linen-tailored suit. Boxy, relaxed and intentionally slouchy, it demonstrated Hekmat’s growing interest in creating pieces that challenge conventional ideas of femininity.

Tailoring did not feel like an interruption to the Cult Gaia universe. Instead, it became another way for the designer to express the brand’s sensuality.

The proportions remained playful, while the construction gave the clothes authority.

This growing menswear category is particularly notable because Cult Gaia introduced menswear relatively recently, and Spring 2027 suggests that the category is becoming a more meaningful part of the label’s future.

The Power of Plissé

Texture played an enormous role throughout the collection.

Hekmat returned to plissé, one of the techniques that has become increasingly important to her design vocabulary, but manipulated it in ways that gave familiar materials a more architectural quality.

One of the early dresses appeared in deep olive green with a woven plissé construction and a fluid, swishy hem. Elsewhere, the technique was transformed into structured bustiers and board shorts, demonstrating the designer’s ability to make an inherently delicate textile feel surprisingly substantial.

The contrast was quintessential Cult Gaia: soft materials behaving like hard objects.

That tension between softness and structure has become one of the defining characteristics of Hekmat’s work. The Spring 2027 collection pushed that relationship even further, particularly through pieces inspired by basketweaving and architectural forms.

Golden Glamour Takes Over the Runway

Cult Gaia has always understood the power of an unforgettable accessory, and Spring 2027 brought that philosophy directly into the clothing.

Golden circular elements originally associated with the brand’s sculptural handbags were connected together to form dramatic pieces including a maxi skirt and a minidress.

The metallic construction immediately recalled the glamour of vintage Paco Rabanne while also carrying a sophisticated Chanel-like polish. It was glamorous without feeling overly traditional.

The golden pieces moved beautifully with the models, turning the garments into kinetic sculptures.

This is where Cult Gaia’s history as an accessories label became particularly important. Hekmat understands that a fashion object can function simultaneously as clothing, jewelry and sculpture. In Spring 2027, those categories became increasingly difficult to separate.

Vacation Dressing, Reimagined

Although the collection became more structured and sophisticated, Hekmat did not abandon the vacation fantasy that has helped establish Cult Gaia’s identity.

Instead, she refined it.

Sheer chiffon separates, floral prints and breezy silhouettes returned, but they were placed within a collection that felt more deliberate and sophisticated. A sheer floral two-piece captured the easy sensuality associated with a Cult Gaia getaway wardrobe, while golden gladiator sandals pushed the look toward something more theatrical.

The message was clear: resort dressing does not have to mean predictable beachwear.

For Spring 2027, Cult Gaia transformed vacation dressing into a broader fantasy of escape, freedom and emotional renewal.

The Cult Gaia Man Steps Forward

While women’s fashion remained the heart of the collection, menswear continued to develop.

The black linen suit was perhaps the clearest example of this expansion, but the collection also introduced playful pieces such as tweed board shorts with fringed hems and a plum plissé shirt with a built-in necktie.

These looks demonstrated that Hekmat is not attempting to create conventional menswear.

Instead, she is bringing the same sense of fantasy, texture and sensuality that defines the women’s collections into a male wardrobe.

The result feels relaxed but highly considered.

The fringed board shorts, in particular, challenge the overly safe approach that often dominates contemporary menswear. They suggest that the Cult Gaia man is willing to experiment with proportion, texture and ornamentation.

Dresses Designed to Look Like Feathers

The collection’s most spectacular moment came toward the finale.

Hekmat presented a series of hand-painted silk gowns featuring strips of dip-dyed pink silk organza arranged in flower-like formations. From a distance, the pieces appeared almost feathered, creating an ethereal effect as the models moved.

But the illusion was entirely created through fabric manipulation.

This technique captured the spirit of the collection perfectly: taking something soft and transforming it into something dramatic and sculptural.

The gowns were romantic, theatrical and unmistakably designed for a major fashion moment. They also demonstrated how Cult Gaia has increasingly moved beyond the idea of creating clothes simply for vacations or social-media impact.

These were gowns built for the red carpet.

A Finale Filled With Flowers

The final looks were accompanied by a dramatic burst of pink flower petals falling from the ceiling.

The moment was deliberately theatrical, but it also carried emotional meaning.

After beginning with darker, more restrained silhouettes, the collection ended in celebration.

The falling petals reinforced the idea that “Behesht” was not simply about grief. It was about what can come after grief.

The runway became a metaphor for transformation: darkness giving way to color, structure giving way to movement, and mourning giving way to celebration.

That emotional shift made the finale one of the most memorable moments of the Spring 2027 New York Fashion Week season.

Beauty: The Romantic Cult Gaia Woman

The beauty direction complemented the collection’s emotional transition.

Hairstylist Karim Belghiran created loosely knotted ponytails that brought an effortless, romantic quality to the runway. The style was intentionally relaxed rather than overly polished, creating what has been described as a “rom-com” aesthetic.

Makeup artist Raoul Alejandre emphasized a flushed, sun-kissed complexion, with berry-toned cheeks and subtle freckles creating the impression of someone returning from an unforgettable summer romance.

The beauty look therefore reinforced the same emotional message as the clothes: sensuality, warmth, romance and freedom.

Cult Gaia’s New Era

Spring 2027 feels like an important moment in Cult Gaia’s evolution.

The label remains committed to the sculptural accessories, glamorous dresses and vacation fantasy that made it recognizable, but Hekmat is increasingly building a complete fashion universe around those ideas.

Tailoring is stronger.

Menswear is expanding.

Eveningwear is becoming more sophisticated.

And the construction of the garments is increasingly important to the overall story.

That evolution does not mean Cult Gaia is abandoning its identity. Quite the opposite. Spring 2027 proves that Hekmat can take the codes people already associate with the label and push them somewhere more sophisticated.

The collection still has the drama. It still has the glamour. It still has the Instagram-ready statement pieces.

But now there is more emotional depth behind them.

Final Verdict

Cult Gaia Spring 2027 is a collection about transformation.

Through “Behesht,” Jasmin Larian Hekmat explored the idea that beauty can exist alongside grief and that joy can eventually emerge from difficult experiences. The collection translated that idea into a wardrobe that moved from dark olive tailoring and structured silhouettes toward metallic glamour, sheer separates, playful menswear and spectacular hand-painted silk gowns.

It was romantic without becoming overly delicate, sculptural without becoming rigid, and glamorous without losing its sense of fun.

Most importantly, Spring 2027 showed that Cult Gaia is becoming more than a destination for statement accessories and vacation dresses. Hekmat is building a fashion house with a distinctive visual language one where clothing can function as sculpture, accessories can become architecture, and glamour can carry emotional meaning.

From the opening tailored looks to the golden chainmail pieces and the feather-like silk gowns of the finale, Cult Gaia’s Spring 2027 collection delivered a powerful reminder that fashion can transform difficult emotions into something beautiful.

Cult Gaia Spring 2027 is not simply about dressing for the next season. It is about finding beauty after darkness and celebrating the moment when life begins to bloom again.

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