LOEWE

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By Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez

LOEWE enters Spring 2027 with a collection that feels increasingly assured in the hands of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. For their third collection for the Spanish luxury house, the designers continued to explore the tension between LOEWE’s extraordinary craft heritage and a more instinctive, contemporary approach to dressing.

Presented in Paris on October 2, 2026, the Spring 2027 collection builds on the visual language established during the designers’ first two seasons while bringing greater attention to the clothes themselves. Before the show, McCollough and Hernandez described their intention to develop the mischievous and conceptual qualities of their work while placing more emphasis on the garment.

The result is a collection filled with flowers, vivid color, revealing silhouettes, micro proportions, transparent layers and playful styling. It is sensual without becoming overly precious, and experimental without losing sight of the everyday wardrobe.

A New Chapter for LOEWE

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez arrived at LOEWE after establishing Proenza Schouler in New York. Their appointment marked a significant new chapter for the Spanish house following Jonathan Anderson’s influential tenure.

Their first LOEWE collection for Spring 2026 introduced a language of sculptural forms, intense color and tactile experimentation. LOEWE itself described that debut through the ideas of clarity, color and sensual physicality.

By Fall/Winter 2026, the designers were already expanding that vocabulary through fringed and embroidered leather, sculpted shearling, innovative footwear and references to contemporary art.

Spring 2027 feels like the next step: less about establishing who McCollough and Hernandez are at LOEWE and more about making their point of view feel natural within the house.

Flowers Take Center Stage

One of the strongest ideas running through the collection is the flower.

Rather than treating florals as a conventional springtime motif, LOEWE plays with their scale, placement and relationship to the body. Tiny floral prints appear across delicate pieces, while embroidered flowers decorate more sculptural silhouettes.

The effect moves between romantic and irreverent. A floral dress can feel fragile from a distance, only to reveal cut-outs or unexpected proportions when seen more closely.

There is also something deliberately playful about the repetition of the motif. Florals appear across clothing and accessories, creating moments of coordination that make the styling feel almost mischievous.

This is not the polished garden-party version of spring dressing. At LOEWE, the flower becomes something more physical and contemporary.

The Rise of the Micro Dress

If one silhouette captures the attitude of LOEWE Spring 2027, it is the micro dress.

The collection pushes proportions dramatically upward, placing the legs at the center of the silhouette. According to Vogue France’s runway analysis, micro dresses were among the defining propositions of the collection.

These dresses are not simply short for the sake of being short. They work as part of a broader exploration of proportion.

The tiny silhouettes are balanced through accessories, layers and footwear, creating an exaggerated relationship between the body and the garment. The result feels youthful, confident and slightly subversive.

For Spring 2027, LOEWE suggests that less fabric can sometimes produce a stronger fashion statement.

Transparency and Layering

Transparency continues to shape the Spring 2027 wardrobe.

Sheer slip skirts appear underneath structured outerwear, while translucent materials are layered with knitwear and other protective pieces.

This contrast is important to the collection.

Rather than presenting transparency purely as an exercise in sensuality, McCollough and Hernandez use it to create different levels within a look. Something can appear delicate underneath while remaining structured above.

The styling therefore becomes almost architectural: a transparent layer, a heavier garment, exposed skin and carefully considered accessories all occupy the same silhouette.

It gives the clothes movement while allowing the wearer to control how much—or how little—is revealed.

A New Take on Sagging

The designers also play with the language of masculine dressing.

Low-slung trousers reveal the waistband of floral underwear, creating a deliberately relaxed silhouette. In some looks, the underwear becomes an unexpected part of the layering itself. Vogue France identified this as one of the collection’s notable directions.

There is humor in the idea.

The traditional luxury trouser is usually associated with precision, tailoring and controlled proportion. LOEWE disrupts that expectation by allowing the waistband to sit visibly above the trousers.

The styling feels youthful but also connected to the long history of fashion borrowing from streetwear and subculture.

At LOEWE, the undone quality becomes intentional.

The Split Capri

Another distinctive silhouette is the split capri.

The cropped trouser is cut in a way that allows a scarf-like element to escape around the leg, introducing a subtle reference to Spanish dress and the visual language associated with the torero.

This is one of the collection’s cleverest gestures because it connects contemporary fashion experimentation with LOEWE’s Spanish identity.

Instead of reproducing heritage literally, the designers reinterpret it through proportion and movement.

The result is recognizably modern while carrying a small cultural echo beneath the surface.

Color Becomes an Attitude

LOEWE Spring 2027 does not approach color timidly.

Canary yellow, vivid orange, bright red, pool blue and almond green appear throughout the collection, sometimes as monochromatic statements and elsewhere in bold color-blocked combinations.

The colors give the collection an almost graphic quality.

After the quieter neutrals that often dominate luxury wardrobes, these shades feel intentionally expressive. A single saturated color can transform a simple silhouette into a statement, while combinations of contrasting shades push the clothes further into the realm of pop imagery.

Color also contributes to the youthful energy of the collection.

The designers understand that color does not need complicated construction to make an impact. Sometimes the strongest fashion statement is simply a brilliant shade worn with confidence.

Where Craft Meets Play

Craft remains essential to LOEWE.

That is particularly important because the house’s identity has long been connected to leatherwork, artisanal techniques and material experimentation. Under McCollough and Hernandez, craftsmanship has not disappeared beneath conceptual design; instead, it has become part of the designers’ broader visual language.

Their previous collections demonstrated this through experimental leather techniques, sculptural forms and unusual accessories. The Spring 2027 collection continues that interest while placing greater emphasis on wearable silhouettes.

This balance is what makes the collection feel distinctly LOEWE.

The clothes can be playful, sexy and youthful, but there is always an underlying respect for construction and material.

The Accessories Matter

At LOEWE, accessories are rarely secondary.

The house’s approach to bags and footwear has become an important part of its identity, and the Spring 2027 collection continues to treat accessories as extensions of the clothing.

Rather than simply completing an outfit, bags and shoes participate in the collection’s visual language.

This is particularly effective when the accessories echo the colors or motifs of the clothing. The matchy-matchy approach identified by Vogue France—where floral elements appear across both clothing and shoes—is deliberately playful rather than overly polished.

It reinforces the collection’s sense of humor.

A More Confident LOEWE

What makes LOEWE Spring 2027 particularly interesting is not simply the individual trends. It is the growing confidence behind them.

McCollough and Hernandez are no longer introducing themselves to LOEWE. They are developing a vocabulary of their own.

The collection retains some of the conceptual playfulness that defined their early work at the house, but the designers have also moved closer to the fundamentals of fashion: the body, proportion, color, texture, movement and the pleasure of getting dressed.

That balance was already visible in their first LOEWE collection, which the house described through sculptural form and elemental color.

Spring 2027 pushes those ideas into something more immediate.

There are clothes designed to be noticed, but also clothes designed to move. There are exaggerated proportions, but also familiar wardrobe pieces. There is sensuality, but also humor. There is Spanish heritage, but it is filtered through the perspective of two American designers working within a historic European luxury house.

The Future of LOEWE

LOEWE Spring 2027 represents an important moment in the continuing evolution of the house under Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.

Their appointment brought a new creative perspective to a brand known for its extraordinary relationship with craft and leather. After three collections, their direction is becoming clearer: contemporary, colorful, tactile, playful and increasingly focused on the physical experience of clothing.

The Spring 2027 collection is perhaps best understood as a conversation between opposites.

Micro and oversized. Covered and transparent. Romantic and rebellious. Refined and undone. Heritage and modernity.

That tension gives the collection its energy.

For Spring/Summer 2027, LOEWE does not simply offer another collection of luxury clothes. It presents a wardrobe built around movement, attitude and experimentation—one in which a tiny floral dress, a low-slung trouser, a vivid color combination or an unexpected accessory can become the starting point for a completely new way of dressing.

And as McCollough and Hernandez continue to shape the house, LOEWE’s future increasingly appears to be about finding beauty in the space between craftsmanship and instinct.

LOEWE Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear is playful, sensual and unmistakably alive.

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